Does Thom Browne’s first haute couture show mean that this is the end of the grey suit? No, absolutely not, but it does mean that the designer has taken the suit in creative new directions.
… solo traveler …— Thom Browne (@ThomBrowne) July 3, 2023
… on a lonely platform …
alek wek wears a handmade self-tipped grey wool suit, grey headscarf and tokyo tortoise heel longwing platforms. she travels with silk frame, pebbled leather luggage.
thom browne couture collection.#thombrowne #thombrownecouture pic.twitter.com/xWMHbQg3ml
“I feel like I’m representing American fashion,” said Browne. “I’m starting with tailoring but elevating it to a level that is worthy of being called couture. And the level in regards to fabrications and embroideries is really what you see – but it’s been elevated to a higher level.”
Held in a full theatre complete with red velvet seats and gilded balconies, which were occupied by rows upon rows of cardboard cutouts of men in grey suits and sunglasses. It certainly looked to be a dramatic scene, but did the clothes match the drama?
Inverted suits, cape coats, sculpted geometric coats, bulbous gowns, pigeon-human hybrid characters, Tim Burton-esque head pieces, all done in greyscale.
The collection gives the vibe of 19th century nobility if social norms didn’t keep them all in line.
The show told a story, taking place at a train station, a large striped bell hung overhead with prop pigeons and model Alek Wek seated atop an assortment of chic luggage. The bell chimed as the other models walked slowly around Wek.
This couture debut has been marked as a one-off, which is a shame because the collection is amazing, but then again, it already kind of feels like Thom Browne already does couture.