Only Watch 2023 is a charity auction hosted to support those inflicted with Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. It’s a successful event that draws in some of the most recognisable brands in watchmaking to offer a unique timepiece for sale on November 5. Often these auctions are responsible for several record-breaking sales, including the Patek Philippe that became the most expensive watch in the world.
So who were the best in show this year?
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch Edition
These models were released in 2022, but the Only Watch Edition sees the model configured with a 41mm white ceramic case and bracelet. The openworked dial has been worked with a vivid blue mainplate and bridges that create a beautiful contrast with the case.
Specific to the Only Watch edition is the inclusion of a blue inner bezel and white-gold hour markers. The special oscillating weight made from 22k gold has been coloured the same blue and rhodium tones found on the dial.
This is expected to sell for CHF 300,000 to 500,000.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble
The slimmest flying tourbillon movement in watchmaking just got a green marble makeover with Bulgari’s Only Watch entry. The case and bracelet are made from green marble, named Verde di Alpi, comes from the Aosta Valley, the passage through the Alps linking Switzerland and Italy. The dial even has a layer of the marble before breaking to reveal the flying tourbillon of the BVL 268.
This expected to sell for CHF 150,000 – 250,000.
Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023
The newly revived Gérald Genta brand has delivered a concept piece that was drawn by Genta, but never realised. Under the lead of Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, this piece is celebrating 100 years of Disney and the 50th anniversary of Genta’s first watch under his name in 1973.
The 40mm case is crafted in white gold in an octagonal shape, a design close to Genta’s heart. The champlevé enamel dial features Mickey Mouse holding a birthday cake, a reference to the watch’s commemorative purpose.
This is estimated to sell for between CHF 350,000 – 500,000.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds For Only Watch
TAG Heuer went all out for Only Watch 2023 by introducing their very first mechanical split-seconds chronograph and a brand new Calibre TH81-00 movement with a 65-hour power reserve. The 41mm case is new too, taking direct cues from the 1969 original, though updated using textured titanium and sapphire exterior.
Not only does the winning bid get the watch, but they also get to spend the weekend with TAG Heuer at the Monaco Grand Prix in May, 2024.
This expected to sell for between CHF 150,000 – 300,000.
Richard Mille RMS14 "Talisman Origine"
In the Swiss mountains, researchers uncovered a gold pendant in a wooden recepticle from an ancient Swiss tribe. Richard Mille are paying tribute to this “Talisman Origine” by adding the tonneau-shaped case to the necklace made from Swiss briarwood, gold, titanium, and rhodonite.
The dangling case is is made up of satin-brushed red gold on the bezels and caseback, a grade 5 titanium caseband and claws which are polished and and microblasted with Swiss rhodonite inserts.
This is expected to sell for between CHF 600,000 – 800,000.
Tudor Prince Chronograph One
Tudor have introduced a brand new Manufacture Chronograph Calibre presented on a 18k solid gold case reminiscent of the “Big Block” chronograph, the first Tudor chronograph released in 1976.
The prototype calibre MT59XX features a column-wheel construction, silicon hairspring, and a 70-hour power reserve.
While this is expected to sell for CHF 25,000 – 35,000, it should go for much more.
Bell & Ross BR03 Cyber Rainbow
This watch may be a contentious pick amongst some of the others in this list, but the BR03 Cyber Rainbow looks like a bunch of fun.
Featuring a full 3D skeleton movement, the bridges are made DLC micro-blasted metal, while the case is DLC titanium adorned with variously coloured varnished pieces meticulously applied using a specialised technique.
Given this isn’t the most exciting release at Only Watch, this isn’t demanding a huge price; CHF 45,000 – 55,000.
