The Type 20 is an historical reference, and while Breguet weren’t the only ones to build one for the French military, theirs was the one that stood the test of time. Now there’s two new references, the Type 20 ref. 2057 and the Type XX ref. 2067, that both take inspiration from their heritage in markedly different ways. The design of the Type 20 hasn’t remained stagnant over the decades and the new releases introduce some of the most significant changes to date.
The two pieces reference two distinct models. The Type 20 ref. 2057 pays tribute to those early military editions, while the Type XX ref. 2067 is inspired by the first generation civilian versions of the Type 20.
The aesthetic differences include a difference in hands and lume. The military version carries syringe hands with mint green lume, while the civilian version has alpha hands and yellow lume. The bezels are different too with the military Type 20 hosting a rotating, non-engraved fluted bezel with a luminous triangle marking zero. The Type XX has a notched polished bi-directional bezel with an engraved 12-hour scale. Finally, the crown on the Type 20 is pear shaped where the Type XX is flat.
The dials are both black but they each have different functions with different features. For starters, the Type 20 only has two counters with one being a small seconds and the other a big-eye 30-minute counter. The Type XX has three counters with small seconds, a 15-minute big-eye counter at 3 o’clock, and a 12-hour totaliser at 6. The only hand on these sub-dials with lume is the minute counter, whereas both sub-dial hands are lumed on the Type 20.
The cases are the same middle case construction crafted in stainless steel with 42mm in diameter and 14mm in height, which is quite typical for a modern pilot’s chronograph. The dial is protected by a box-shaped sapphire crystal and features an exhibition caseback in which you can see the new movements.
Yes, movements plural. Both new movements are developed and manufactured in-house by Breguet but the only difference between the two are the amount of counter displays (two for the military and three for the civilian).
Both the calibre 728 (Type XX) and the calibre 7281 (Type 20) feature an automatic, integrated chronograph with a flyback function built with a column wheel and vertical clutch to ensure a smooth start and reset of the chronograph. This allows you to perform several timing sessions in a row without having to press stop, reset, then start. Instead, you just have to press the pusher at 4 o’clock. Both movements have a 60-hour power reserve.
In addition, Breguet added a interchangeability system for the strap. Removing the strap is simple by pressing the under-lug correctors. The Type 20 is delivered with a black calfskin strap, while the Type XX is a light brown leather strap. Both come with an additional black fabric NATO strap.
Both pieces are set to be part of Breguet’s permanent collection so they won’t be limited. Both models are priced at $26,200 AUD.
