If there is one word to describe Oris’ new movement, the Calibre 473, it would be romantic. Arguably, almost any mechanical watch movement today could be described in this way. We don’t “need” wristwatches anymore – we have more accurate ways to keep time, hell, we don’t even need a specific accessory to do so, just a smartphone. But even within watchmaking, this is something romantic, a manual wind-up movement with a big, big crown.
The ritual of the morning wind-up is something many enthusiasts treasure and while you won’t be winding the calibre 473 every morning thanks to its 120 hour power reserve, it’s still a modernised version of that feeling. Perhaps some will find that this removes the romantic quality of manually winding your watch, but others may see this as simple modern convenience and innovation. Another added convenience is the power reserve indicator.
You won’t lack for performance either as the calibre 473 is COSC certified with an accuracy of -5/+3 seconds per day. While the movement is still visible through the caseback, it’s only through small cut-outs revealing the balance cock and wheel and the aforementioned power reserve indicator. The movement is also backed by a 10-year warranty.
We’ve talked a lot about the movement but let’s take a look at the exterior. First, we have to talk about the titular crown – it’s huge. It’s huge for a reason though, it’s so pilots can adjust the watch with their gloves on. How many pilots use this feature today, we don’t know, but it’s a nice piece of horological history and form on the watch.
At 38mm with a small seconds hand counter at six o’clock across a sky blue dial feels reminiscent of the pale blue sky pilots are surely familiar with. Brushed stainless steel case, sword hands, and sloped lugs also make this feel very much in the military watch camp.
The watch is thicker than the previous calibre 403, measuring in at 12.7mm, but this is so it can house the power reserve indicator and the date function. The date hand goes around the dial rather than a window, which is a stylistic choice that really works here to trick others glancing at it that you’re wearing a GMT.
The movement isn’t the only thing that’s new here with the strap being made from sustainable olive brown deer leather from Cervo Volante and in a first for Oris, it’s secured with a new deployant butterfly clasp with fine adjustment sizing. There are no puncture holes in the strap which at first might have you scratching your head, but it’s all part of the plan. Instead, the clasp can be clamped down wherever you prefer on the strap.
These are available now for $6,500 AUD ($4,400 USD).
At a Glance
Reference: 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC
Water Resistance: 50m
Strap/Clasp: Olive brown Cervo Volante sustainable deer leather strap. Stainless steel butterfly clasp with fine adjustment system.
Movement: In-house manually wound Calibre 473
Power Reserve: 120 hours