It’s Dr. No’s 60th anniversary which means Omega are once again rolling out the commemorative James Bond Seamasters. We got two new watches: one in blue and steel, the other white gold with baguette gems. While certainly not exciting at this point, the blue version at least is a safe hit – it’s everything a James Bond watch needs to be – but the Canopus gold Seamaster should have been sent to die on her majesty’s secret service.
Shall we get the bad out of the way first?
The Canopus gold Seamaster has a yellow and green treated diamond bezel which is supposed to be a tribute to the Jamaican flag. Why the Jamaican flag? It’s an homage to Ian Fleming’s Goldeneye estate in Jamaica. I guess it’s a more unique homage to Bond, but as a result this doesn’t feel like a Bond watch at all.
The natural grey silicon dial looks vaguely military inspired with a slate pattern that resembles camouflage, but this doesn’t fit with the bezel at all. The lack of diamonds on the dial contributes to this lack of cohesion. Quite simply, the diamonds are an addition that doesn’t feel well thought out.
Let me ask you a question – can you actually imagine this on Bond’s wrist? The character is very classic in his tastes and while this is retro in its general aesthetic, the dial and bezel are not.
The regular blue and steel version is far better than the Canopus version. This one takes reference from Omega’s first appearance in the Bond franchise in 1995’s Goldeneye. They’ve taken bits of the 90s design and mixed it with that faux vintage look we see on things like the Tudor Black Bay.
It has the original blue hue from the Diver 300m and a mesh bracelet that really carries the vintage vibe the whole piece has. We’ve also got an anodized aluminium blue bezel paired with an aluminium blue dial with laser-engraved wave pattern. The bezel is lumed with a “60” instead of the usual triangle.
The most fun addition has to be the lollipop seconds hand. Nothing else, just needed special mention that’s all.
The key difference functionally from all Diver 300m models is the no-date format, but otherwise it’s the same uni-directional dive-time bezel, crown, and HEV.
The “film-themed caseback” is interesting to say the least. Is it a bit cheesy? Yes. Is it well executed? Yes, sort of, but it feels a little too much. It does have a “moiré” effect animation that is linked to the seconds hand.
The movement is the Calibre 8806, same as the No Time To Die model.
The regular blue model will set you back $7,400 USD with the Jamaican model going for around $140,000.
At A Glance
Model: Seamaster Diver 300m 60 Years of James Bond – Stainless Steel
Case Material: Steel
Indexes: Applied Markers
Water Resistance: 300m
Strap/Bracelet: Mesh bracelet
Calibre: Omega 8806
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, helium escape valve
Power Reserve: 55 hours