At the Geneva convention, Patek Philippe have unveiled a flurry of new watches that may be some of the best and most interesting pieces from the watchmaker.
Ref. 6002R-001 Sky Moon Tourbillon Haut Artisanat
The Ref. 6002R-001 is a new take on Patek’s Sky Moon Tourbillon. I had to start with this watch because I think it’s my favourite of the new collection. The 44mm 18k rose gold case has been intricately engraved by hand with volutes and arabesques. It’s an opulent old-world throwback reminiscent of wood-panelled walls, decanters of scotch, and leather-bound books.
The case is also double-faced with the front dial combining Grand Feu champlevé and cloisonné brown enamel, while the reverse holds a sky chart, sidereal time, phases and orbit of the moon. The front dial doesn’t lack complications, it features a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date hand, hours and minutes of mean solar time, as well as a moon phase. With 12 complications, this watch is the second most complicated wristwatch Patek Phillipe have ever created.
Ref. 5304/301R-001 Minute Repeater with a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar
This watch is a new version of the first Patek grand complication with a transparent sapphire dial. The new variant features a rose gold case on which the bezels, lugs, and fold-over clasp are all covered in 80 baguette-cut diamonds. The diamonds do seem to make the mechanical work inside pop in contrast with the black and gold. It’s all very nice but I personally think the watch looks too busy, but I can appreciate the thought put into it. I suppose you can say that about any luxury watchmaker though.
Ref. 5374G-001 Minute Repeater with a Perpetual Calendar
The watch with the brilliant sounding cathedral gongs is now in a white-gold case and a blue enamel dial. I quite like this watch. It seemed bland at first glance but the more I paid attention to it, the more I was rewarded. You can see all the gentle, playful and slight curves of everything from the case to the hands and numerals, not to mention the concaved bezel. The enamel dial colour is rich and an absolute delight to simply stare at. A worthy addition to the collection.
Ref. 7040/250G-001 Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater for Ladies
The dial of this watch is quite simply beautiful. According to Patek themselves, the gold dial plate is hand-guilloched with a swirling pattern which is then coated with transparent blue enamel that reveals the underlying decoration. I couldn’t describe this better myself, so I had to let Patek do it because this is quite a rare handcrafts technique that’s known as ‘flinqué’ enamel. If the technique wasn’t enough, all around the bezel is a double row of 168 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds. A superb watch.
Nautilus Haute Joaillerie
Each of these three new Nautilus are completely adorned in diamonds. Diamonds are everywhere, the dial is paced with them, the bezels are crusted with them, the bracelet isn’t spared either. All up there are 2,553 brilliant-cut internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds. It’s quite an impressive thing to behold. The pink one honestly is more impressive than I thought it would be as the pink diamonds over the gold provide an exceptional contrast.
Ref. 5738/51G-001 Golden Ellipse
The Ellipse now has a new white gold with another superb dial. What Patek have done is hollow out a gold dial plate to form cavities that are then filled with Grand Feu black enamel using the champlevé technique. They then have hand-engraved the gold areas with arabesques and volutes décor. This is a very striking watch that gives off a Victorian/Gothic vibe. Thank you Patek, very cool.