Credit: Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe have just expanded the Aquanaut collection with seven new references.

Two of the new models, the ref. 5968G-001 and the 5968G-010, are the first pieces in the Aquanaut collection to feature a case made from precious metals. These sports watches have been described by the brand as ‘contemporary casual chic’. I’d say that’s apt.

Ref. 5968G-010 (left) & ref. 5968G-001 (right) | Credit: Patek Philippe

The 5968G-010 continues the brand’s foray into the green trend that we saw them implement earlier this year with their most recent Nautilus collection. This time, the bracelet isn’t made from stainless steel or white gold but from a green composite material that gives this watch series its own flavour. I personally really like this watch even if I do prefer the Nautilus in general. I think the blue variant is just as beautiful as the green and it really comes to personal preference when deciding which looks better.

We see another variation of the 010 with a stainless-steel case that you might think would make it the lesser of the two but, well, that depends. The ref. 5267/200A-011 features 48 1.11 ct diamonds around the bezel. It also doesn’t feature a mechanical movement like the 010 but a quartz movement. The bracelet is the same composite material but lacks the 60-minute counter complication of the 5968G-010.

Personally, I prefer the 5968G-010 but that’s just because I’m not super crazy about diamonds all over my watches. The 5267/200A’s do come in a range of three colours though, including black and white. I think the 200A’s are a lesser version of the 5968G’s. Excluding the white variant, I think that one achieves an elegance similar to the ref. 5268/200R’s.

Now, the ref. 5268/200R-001 and 5269/200R-001 are elegant watches with rose gold cases and 48 diamonds around the bezel. Again, not my favourites simply due the number of diamonds, but here I think it works better than the 527/200A’s. The white of the dial and bracelet go beautifully with the rose gold case. The diamonds also feel more intentional on these models as well and feel far less garish. The 5268 features a mechanical movement rather than a quartz movement of the 5269. For added function, the ref. 5269/200R-001 features a dual time zone complication.

Patek Philippe have brought out some great watches here with some faring better than others. I would say the 5968G’s are the best of the bunch with the 200R’s coming in second. I’m just not really feeling the 527/200A’s that much, they aren’t bad by any means, but their design gives off the impression that they didn’t know what they wanted the watch to be. If you took out the diamonds, it would be too similar to the 5968G’s but with the composite strap it feels too casual for diamonds.  

You could say the same about the 200R’s but with the gold case it feels more like a deliberate design choice rather than something added on later to differentiate it from the 5968G’s. I don’t know what the solution is, but I guess I think that the 200A’s are a little superfluous. I think I’m being far too harsh here though because the 200A’s are still fine watches, just not my personal preference.