Out with the old, in with the 41mm.
First things first, by now we all should have noticed that 41mm seems to be the new men’s standard, at least according to Rolex – the Submariner has gone from 40mm in diameter to 41mm, and the new Oyster Perpetual 41 is replacing the well known Oyster Perpetual 39.
Bigger might just be better in this case (pun intended)
One of the exciting features of the Oyster Perpetual 41 and the new Oyster Perpetual 36 is that they are powered by the Calibre 3230, a new movement introduced this year by Rolex and also used in the new Submariner.
The 2020 Oyster Perpetual 41mm with a brand new movement – the Calibre 3230 (credit: Rolex)
This new movement incorporates the new Rolex Chronergy escapement, which improves the efficiency of this key component by 15 percent and contributes to a greater power reserve –a comfortable (and convenient if you rotate through your watches) 70 hours.
Furthermore, the Chronergy escapement is made of nickel-phosphorus, making it insensitive to magnetic interferences. The movement is also fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, a paramagnetic alloy manufactured exclusively by Rolex, making it 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks, when paired with the Rolex overcoil.
Slightly thinner than the Datejust 41, the new Oyster Perpetual offers a more discreet look – minimalist as there is no date, but not minimal, as the index hour markers are in 18k gold, doubled at 3, 6, 9, and both the markers and the baton hands are filled with Chromalight, Rolex’s luminescent material that lasts longer than Super-LumiNova.
Chromalight, Rolex’s blue luminescent material is applied to the hands and indices of the Oyster Perpetual (credit: Rolex)
The excitement doesn’t end there, not even close – in addition to the new movement and the introduction of a new case size, a selection of five solid colours are now available in the Oyster Perpetual collection of 2020.
The Oyster Perpetual 41 dials will be available in black, blue, and silver, with a sunray finish.
Colour options also include solid colours of yellow, turquoise, coral red, or green.
Notably, a pink dial is available as well, albeit only as a solid colour on the 36mm Oyster Perpetual of the 2020 collection, and with a sunray finish on the 34mm, 31mm, and 28mm models.
The Oyster Perpetual 36in pink (Credit: Rolex)
Some may find the colours a bit overwhelming, although most who know of the Stella dials from decades ago would understand this is not a first from Rolex.
Indeed, the new coloured lacquered dials may be a nod to the Stella dials of the vintage models – the brilliantly coloured dials of the Day-Date models introduced in the 1970s.
The Stella dials came in an extravaganza of colours back in the day – colours one would not have expected to see on a Rolex – oxblood, red, orange, blue, green, turquoise, peach, salmon, pink, yellow, and purple.
The Stella dials were not as popular back then, and some were even switched back to more ‘conservative’ dials, making the Stella dials a coveted and rare collectible series of watches in the present. The reception of the 2020 collection seems mostly positive, though, so it may be best to grab some before it’s too late!
A collection of the Stella dials (credit: bobswatches.com)
Although it is a bit of a shame that not all of those colours have made a return all at once, it is still very exciting to see that some vibrant colours are available once again on the dials of the new Oyster Perpetuals.
With five sizes to choose from and even more colour options, the possibilities seem endless with this collection.
Regardless of dial colour, the 41mm Oyster Perpetual will be available at A$8,300; the 36mm at A$7,850; the 34mm at A$7,400; 31mm at A$7,250; and the 28mm at $7,150.